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#197662 - 02/09/19 07:59 AM Cutting Brass For 500 JRH
Artemis444
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Registered: 07/26/18
Posts: 67
Loc: North West Georgia

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Hey guys. I?m getting started reloading. The guy I got my JRH from gave me about 60 pieces of 500 s&w brass he had cut down for the JRH.

What would be the best way to trim up this brass?

Also, how can I make some more from new 500 s&w brass. The cost of JRH brass is $130 plus shipping per 100. I can get starline s&w brass for $60 per 100 so I would rather cut it down.

Thanks for the help!!!
Noobie... Mitch

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#197663 - 02/09/19 08:11 AM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: Artemis444]
Buck_358
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Registered: 11/29/12
Posts: 110
Loc: SE Indiana

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Mitch
I use my Apple high speed arrow cut off saw with a simple DIY aluminum jig to hold the brass at the right length. I follow the brass up on a standard case trimmer to finish to length. I can buzz through a box of Starline 500 S&W cases in no time. After trimmed run through the FL sizer and off you go.
Damon
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#197664 - 02/09/19 08:21 AM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: Buck_358]
magman
old hand


Registered: 01/18/04
Posts: 813
Loc: NY

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HF mini chopsaw and a jig.
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#197670 - 02/09/19 04:31 PM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: magman]
adbhowler
journeyman


Registered: 10/03/18
Posts: 55
Loc: Colorado

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I got a cheap 2 inch chop saw from Harbor Freight. It works great. Cut the brass down to within a couple of hundredths then took the rest off with my Lyman trimmer. Good luck and good shooting
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#197721 - 02/13/19 10:02 AM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: adbhowler]
Jeff460
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Registered: 12/01/17
Posts: 154
Loc: Kansas

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An advantage to making your 500 JRH brass by cutting down 500 S&W brass is the size of the rim at the base. A 500 JRH has a turned down rim compared to the rim of a 500 S&W case. By using the 500 S&W cut down to 500 JRH you get a robust rim that will eject more reliably from a double-action cylinder. A double-action ejector can miss the rim of the factory 500 JRH and leave the empty casing resting in the cylinder. Not a good situation if needing to reload in a hurry...

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#197722 - 02/13/19 11:09 AM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: Jeff460]
Whitworth
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Registered: 01/15/09
Posts: 9458
Loc: Virginia

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 Originally Posted By: Jeff460
An advantage to making your 500 JRH brass by cutting down 500 S&W brass is the size of the rim at the base. A 500 JRH has a turned down rim compared to the rim of a 500 S&W case. By using the 500 S&W cut down to 500 JRH you get a robust rim that will eject more reliably from a double-action cylinder. A double-action ejector can miss the rim of the factory 500 JRH and leave the empty casing resting in the cylinder. Not a good situation if needing to reload in a hurry...


He has a BFR in .500 JRH. Not an issue. I can say this with certainty, my .500 Linebaugh BFR is much harder to unload and load in a hurry than my .500 JRH BFRs because of the increase in rim size. It hangs up much more easily. I kinda like the smaller rim. Plus, only .005 separates the JRH from the S&W rim.
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#197725 - 02/13/19 01:37 PM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: Whitworth]
Jeff460
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Registered: 12/01/17
Posts: 154
Loc: Kansas

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Mr. Prasac,
I am fully aware of all you stated. I have an X-frame 500 Smith and Wesson and do not hand-load. Buffalo Bore 500 JRH brand is what I will purchase and use in my double-action revolver. I would prefer 500 Smith and Wesson magnum brass cut-down as I want all empty cases to eject with authority, when the revolver is inverted and the ejector-rod is activated.
A moon clip set-up would solve the issue of uniform ejection definitively, but that is cost prohibitive for me at this juncture. All sauce for the goose as the saying goes.

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#197726 - 02/13/19 02:22 PM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: Jeff460]
Whitworth
Shootist


Registered: 01/15/09
Posts: 9458
Loc: Virginia

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 Originally Posted By: Jeff460
Mr. Prasac,
I am fully aware of all you stated. I have an X-frame 500 Smith and Wesson and do not hand-load. Buffalo Bore 500 JRH brand is what I will purchase and use in my double-action revolver. I would prefer 500 Smith and Wesson magnum brass cut-down as I want all empty cases to eject with authority, when the revolver is inverted and the ejector-rod is activated.
A moon clip set-up would solve the issue of uniform ejection definitively, but that is cost prohibitive for me at this juncture. All sauce for the goose as the saying goes.


I only responded to your double-action comment because he stated that he has a BFR (and the BFR was cut for the bigger rim). Don't read more into it as there was nothing more to it than that. And, I don't doubt your experiences.

On another note, my X-frame never experienced ejection problems with either brass, but I rarely put .500 JRH ammo through it as I have other revolvers for that and well, it's a .500 Smith, so why put up with the bulk unless you're shooting full-length ammo, but that's just me!
_________________________
Max Prasac

Semper Fidelis

Bovine Bullet Test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmtZky8T7-k&t=35s

Gun Digest TV's Modern Shooter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGo-KMpXPpA&t=7s


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#197727 - 02/13/19 04:09 PM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: Whitworth]
Jeff460
member


Registered: 12/01/17
Posts: 154
Loc: Kansas

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Peace Brother! I am me and you are you and personal liberty with your guns are yours. I am into what I need and nothing more. But in time I will try full-blown 500 Smith and Wesson MAGNUM with a 525 grain wide-nose gas-check bullet at upwards of 1500 fps at the muzzle.
That is 500 Maximum territory with a straight .500 caliber bullet versus the .511 caliber of the 500 Maximum. But a 440 grain at 1350 fps ought to suffice for a pig.

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#197728 - 02/13/19 04:19 PM Re: Cutting Brass For 500 JRH [Re: Jeff460]
Jeff460
member


Registered: 12/01/17
Posts: 154
Loc: Kansas

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My X-frame weighs just a slight amount over 60 ounces so it does not seem overly large to me. It has a 6.5 inch long half-lug barrel with integral muzzle brake setup. Out of that length of barrel I think the 500 JRH will burn more efficiently than a full-length 500 Smith and Wesson magnum full-power load.

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