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#180600 - 04/30/17 10:17 PM Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job
Handgun400
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Has anyone tried this?

I saw the video on YouTube and decided to give it a try on my new 21SF. It involves a detailed strip of the pistol and a lot of polishing with a good metal polish. All in all, it smoothed things up a bit but still need to replace a few parts to get a trigger I can live with.

Looking at going to a #5 or at the least a #3.5 trigger.
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#180604 - 04/30/17 10:42 PM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: Handgun400]
karl
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I did it on a friends G40 and was underwhelmed with the results. Perhaps I wasn't patient enough. Ended up replacing a few parts (firing pin release pin and the bar that pushes the firing pin back) and was under whelmed with those results too. That being said, all that work was cheap and easy and any voodoo you can do to the glock trigger with a potential to make it better is worth it in my opinion.

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#180612 - 05/01/17 09:46 AM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: karl]
Handgun400
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"any voodoo you can do to the glock trigger with a potential to make it better is worth it in my opinion"

Yup. Trying to do everything before buying a drop-in trigger.
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#180675 - 05/04/17 11:41 AM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: Handgun400]
reflex264
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I work on them all the time. Here is a way to have a good trigger on a Glock.

I will have to type this up in detail later but the short version is:
parts needed: ghost rocket 3.5 connector, 4 lbs striker spring, low tension mag safety plunger spring, titanium plunger,6 lbs trigger spring, 2000 grit and 600 grit sand cloth, a new lead pencil and some 1500 grit polishing compound. Slide inspection cover Midwayusa part number 571365 2 uninterrupted hours.

1. remove the law enforcement trigger spring and saddle
2. remove the factory trigger connector, striker spring and magazine safety plunger and trigger bar assembly
3. place all parts in a zip lock bag if you want to return it to stock later. Never throw a part away.
4. using 600 grit debur the trigger bar inside and outside. Use the 2000 grit to mirror polish surfaces. Polish the bearing surface of the trigger connector. Using a pencil eraser trimmed to form a wedge with the polishing compound to polish the top inner edge of the connector. I know they look shiny but you will never get a truly slick trigger without these steps. Using the pencil and polishing compound polish the striker bearing surfaces till they look like a mirror. DON'T BUY A TITANIUM STRIKER!!!! The stock striker is much stronger and polished gives just as good a trigger pull. Pay special attention to the area that engages the plunger. For best results replace the plastic spring retainers when re-assembling the striker. Even mild wear causes a drag in the trigger pull. Polish the end of the sear with the 2000 grit and the engagement area of the striker. Re-assemble the slide with the orange inspection cover and the trigger housing assembly using the new parts. Be careful not to kink the trigger spring. Rack the slide as if to fire. If you did everything correctly you should have a drastically improved trigger. if the engagement of the new connector doesn't allow the striker to fall view the engagement through the orange cover and see how much metal has to be removed. take off small amounts at a time using a Popsicle stick and the 600 grit. When it reaches the point where it would fire re polish with the 2000 grit. If the gun is reaching the point of disengagement and still would break remove the slide and check the connector clearance. This part is actually a spring and can be bent to achieve optimum pressure on the bar. remove it from the housing and bend it very slightly in toward the trigger housing. This may take 10 tries to get it right. If its out to far the trigger bar drags. If its in too close the sear won't disengage. That's the short version....

71 yards with a Glock. Intentional aorta shot.


Edited by reflex264 (05/04/17 11:47 AM)
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#180676 - 05/04/17 12:22 PM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: reflex264]
karl
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Thanks for the description Reflex264, that's a lot more involved then the little I did.

Do you ever get to the point where you can predict when the trigger will break? I felt that the long take up distance on the trigger at moderate to high force made it difficult to predict when it would break. Is there a preferred technique to "pulling" the trigger on a glock that would be different from contenders or rifles?

Thanks for sharing!

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#180677 - 05/04/17 12:54 PM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: karl]
reflex264
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Yes. The best way to do it is use a kinetic tech trigger shoe after doing the work listed about. You end up with a 2 stage/ 1 stage trigger.

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"A quiet hit in the right place is better than a loud miss in the wrong place followed by 10 more shots on the run"

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#180680 - 05/04/17 05:44 PM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: reflex264]
reflex264
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I just realized that I left out changing the parts. I figure you got that. The springs and connector have to be replaced.
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"A quiet hit in the right place is better than a loud miss in the wrong place followed by 10 more shots on the run"

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#180681 - 05/04/17 08:39 PM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: reflex264]
Handgun400
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Reflex264,
WOW is just an understatement! Thank you for your detailed directions. They're more than I expected but I'll definitely do this.

A 71 yard intentional aorta shot with any pistol is impressive.
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#180923 - 05/18/17 04:53 PM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: Handgun400]
Handgun400
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Loc: Arkansas

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I ended up putting a Zev Technologies spring kit in my 21. It kind of went from a tough SA to a long, yet smooth and crisp DA.

Not sure I'll stop there with the trigger but for now it's made a ton of difference. I suppose what we become proficient with is sometimes what we get used to.
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#180924 - 05/18/17 06:14 PM Re: Glock .25 Cent Trigger Job [Re: Handgun400]
reflex264
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If you changed the springs (I am assuming the trigger, striker and plunger spring) adding a 3.5 connector will help. With out doing the springs they are a waste of money. Over travel stops are tricky. Stay away from the Jentra. Looks good on paper but wont stay still. The adjustable housings are hit and miss. There is a fine line between the sear failing to disengage and the over-travel being taken up. The surest bet is the ultimate pro 3.5. When fitted correctly it is full proof. More work but you get out what you put in.
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