Photo 1 - Good hunting photos have several components. This is the final version but let's look at what to do and what not to do to get great hunting photos.

One of the most valuable pieces of equipment is the flash. You might think this is only useful when it's nearly dark but using one even in broad daylight will greatly improve your photos once you learn how to use it. The technique is called "fill flash" and what that means is that the flash is used to add just a bit of light to the shot so the shadows get filled.

Photo 1 is an example of a shot where a fill flash was used. Even though the sun is behind and to the left of the subject, the animal and the face of the hunter is well lit. Photo 2 is the same pose but the flash didn't go off on this one and the result is obviously a poor photograph. Newer cameras often have a built-in flash that can be set to provide fill when desired but many lower end and higher end cameras don't and you have to attach the flash to the camera and then set everything properly. Explaining all aspects of fill flash is only somewhat complicated due to the different types of flashes and cameras but your owners manual and any basic photography book should cover the subject well. The technique is quite simple with only a little practice.

Photo 2 - A fill flash wasn't used and the subjects are too dark. The camera's meter exposed for the more well lit background.

Another component to good hunting photos is posing the animal. One of the biggest mistakes made is showing an animal covered with blood or otherwise seemingly shot full of holes. Blood should be covered or washed off prior to any photos being taken. I prefer to wash off the blood if water is available but a couple handfuls of dry dirt rubbed into the hide where the blood is apparent will disguise it for the camera. The other option is to use computer software like Photoshop Elements from Adobe.

Photo 3 - Quite a few flaws in a photo are simple to fix with computer software prior to printing. This bullet hole was removed in the final version.

Most photo processing places can offer you a CD of your images, even if you're still shooting conventional film, and the power of a few computer darkroom techniques can greatly improve a picture. Photo 3 is the same as photo 1 but using the Photoshop clone tool I was able to hide the bullet hole in the ribcage of the red hartebeest. Larger areas of blood around the mouth are best wiped off prior to the photo since they can be difficult to disguise using software. Photoshop Elements retails for about $100 but it's well worth it if you like to print your own photos.

Another common problem I see with many hunting photos is that the horns or antlers blend into the background. The best results are achieved when the animal can be sky lined to accentuate the horns. The photographer will nearly always have to lay flat on the ground or if you're by yourself then a table-top tripod can be easily packed along to perform the task. Use the camera's self-timer to release the shutter.

Photo 4 & 5 - Left, the photographer is too far from the subjects, the camo & grass serve to hide not only the horns but most of the animal as well. By moving the nyala to a dirt mound the horns can be skylined and the entire animal is visible..

More natural poses are achieved if all photos are taken prior to field dressing the game. They are sometimes more difficult to handle if the animal is large but you'll never get another chance to take the photo once the game is skinned & wrapped. Photo locations to be avoided are the back of the truck and hanging from the meat pole. Your hunting buddies won't mind too much but non-hunters will appreciate the photos far more if the animal is posed naturally in its environment.

I hope you find these simple tips helpful. I'm certain if you follow these guidelines your photos will improve by leaps & bounds and if you have a question that I didn't answer don't hesitate to drop me an email.

Good Hunting,
Gary

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